This article looks in detail at the history and features of this famous collection of 12 iconic models launched in 1973.
Shortly after 1968 and its protest movements, Cartier also underwent its own revolution. The Maison had already been going through a difficult period for several years, probably due to the lack of a proper distribution network. Faced with a serious situation, Cartier Paris decided to entrust Robert Hocq – then president of Silver Match, the world’s leading lighter manufacturer – with a licence to market such an accessory under his name: the famous Cartier lighter was born. It was a resounding success, leading to the launch of the famous Must line in 1973. In 1970, one year after he was hired, Alain-Dominique Perrin became Managing Director of the Briquets Cartier company. Robert Hocq finalised this new management team with the arrival of his friend Joseph Kanoui, a well-known businessman and investor. The purchase of Cartier Paris was approved in 1972 (the first stage in the global reorganisation that would continue in 1974 with the purchase of Cartier London and in 1976 with the purchase of Cartier New-York). In 1972, Robert Hocq took over as head of Cartier Paris, assisted by Perrin. The Must line was then launched in 1973 and met with great success, injecting new energy into the brand’s entire catalogue. It was in this new creative and prosperous atmosphere that the idea of a new Louis Cartier watch collection was born in 1973: a new series of 12 new iconic models, all presented in large and small versions (with the exception of the Baignoire model, the ladies’ watch par excellence). 23 new watches inspired by the most representative models in the brand’s history were launched on the market, all in 18-carat gold.
The Louis Cartier Collection (1973)
Cartier Ceinture
Ref. 78099 – Large
- White or Yellow Gold
- Caliber: manual Cartier 78-1
- Dimensions: 27 x 27 mm
Ref. 78100 – Small
- White or Yellow Gold
- Caliber: manual Cartier 78-1
- Dimensions: 25 x 25 mm
Other Series
- 1974: Ref. 17001 – Jumbo Automatic (White or Yellow Gold, 31 x 31 mm, cal. 170)
- Mid 1970s: Ref. 78208 – Large “2 Ors” (WG & YG) (cal. 78-1)
- Mid 1970s: Ref. 78210 – Small “2 Ors” (WG & YG) (cal. 78-1)
- 1980s: Quartz models
Cartier Square
Ref. 97051 – Large
- White or Yellow Gold
- Caliber: manual Cartier 97B
- Dimensions: 34 x 38 mm
Ref. 78085 – Small
- White or Yellow Gold
- Caliber: manual Cartier 78-1
- Dimensions: 25 x 27 mm
Cartier Ellipse
Ref. 78091 – Large
- White or Yellow Gold
- Caliber: manual Cartier 78-1
- Dimensions: 28 x 32 mm
Ref. 67081 – Small
- White or Yellow Gold
- Caliber: manual Cartier 067
- Dimensions: 23 x 26 mm
Other Series
- Mid 1970s: Ref. 78209 – Large “2 Ors” (WG & YG) (cal. 78-1)
- Mid 1970s: Ref. 78211 – Small “2 Ors” (WG & YG) (cal. 78-1)
- 1980s: Quartz models
Cartier Santos Dumont
Ref. 78097 – Large
- White or Yellow Gold
- Caliber: manual Cartier 78-1
- Dimensions: 25 x 25 mm
Ref. 78098 – Small
- White or Yellow Gold
- Caliber: manual Cartier 78-1
- Dimensions: 20 x 20 mm
Other Series
- Mid 1970s: Ref. 78225 – Large “2 Ors” (WG & YG) (cal. 78-1)
- Mid 1970s: Ref. 78xxx – Small “2 Ors” (WG & YG) (cal. 78-1)
- 1980s: Ref. 96054 – Large Yellow Gold Extra-Plate (cal. 021)
- 1980s: Ref. 96053 – Small Yellow Gold Extra Plate (cal. 021)
- 1980s: Ref. 96061 – Large Extra Plate “2 Ors” (WG & YG) (cal. 021)
- 1980s: Ref. 96062 – Small Extra-Plate “2 Ors” (WG & YG) (cal. 021)
- 1990s: new Extra-Plate versions with guilloché dials (cal. 021)
Cartier Baignoire
Ref. 78094 – Unique Size
- White or Yellow Gold
- Caliber: manual Cartier 78-1
- Dimensions: 24 x 31 mm
Other Series
- 1980s: Quartz models
Cartier Vendôme
Ref. 78090 – Large
- White or Yellow Gold
- Caliber: manual Cartier 78-1
- Dimensions: 34 mm
Ref. 67080 – Small
- White or Yellow Gold
- Caliber: manual Cartier 067
- Dimensions: 26 mm
Other Series
- 1974: Ref. 17003 – Vendôme Automatic (White or Yellow Gold, 34 mm, cal. 170)
- Mid 1970s: Ref. 78xxx – Large “2 Ors” (WG & YG) (cal. 78-1)
- Mid 1970s: Ref. 67113 – Small “2 Ors” (WG & YG) (cal. 067)
Cartier Cristallor
Ref. 78096 – Large
- White or Yellow Gold
- Caliber: manual Cartier 78-1
- Dimensions: 28 x 35 mm
Ref. 78095 – Small
- White or Yellow Gold
- Caliber: manual Cartier 78-1
- Dimensions: 24 x 30 mm
Cartier Tank Normale
Ref. 78092 – Large
- White or Yellow Gold
- Caliber: manual Cartier 78-1
- Dimensions: 23 x 30 mm
Ref. 78093 – Small
- White or Yellow Gold
- Caliber: manual Cartier 78-1
- Dimensions: 18 x 24 mm
Other Series
- 1980s: Quartz models
Cartier Gondole
Ref. 97050 – Large
- White or Yellow Gold
- Caliber: manual Cartier 97B
- Dimensions: 35 x 40 mm
Ref. 78091 – Small
- White or Yellow Gold
- Caliber: manual Cartier 78-1
- Dimensions: 24 x 28 mm
Other Series
- 1970s: Ref. 17010 – Automatic (White or Yellow Gold, 27 x 31 mm, cal. 170)
Cartier Fabergé
Ref. 78101 – Large
- White or Yellow Gold
- Caliber: manual Cartier 78-1
- Dimensions: 27 x 32 mm
Ref. 67082 – Small
- White or Yellow Gold
- Caliber: manual Cartier 067
- Dimensions: 20 x 27 mm
Cartier Coussin
Ref. 78102 – Large
- White or Yellow Gold
- Caliber: manual Cartier 78-1
- Dimensions: 26 x 34 mm
Ref. 78110 – Small
- White or Yellow Gold
- Caliber: manual Cartier 78-1
- Dimensions: 19 x 27 mm
Cartier Tank LC
Ref. 78086 – Large
- White or Yellow Gold
- Caliber: manual Cartier 78-1
- Dimensions: 23x 30 mm
Ref. 78087 – Small
- White or Yellow Gold
- Caliber: manual Cartier 78-1
- Dimensions: 21 x 28 mm
Other Series
- 1973: Ref. 96019 – Large Extra-Plate (White or Yellow Gold, 23 x 30 mm, cal. 021)
- 1974: Ref. 17002 – Jumbo Automatic (White or Yellow Gold, 28 x 35 mm, cal. 170)
- From the mid-1970s to the present day, the Tank Louis Cartier model has been available in a multitude of versions, with manual, automatic or quartz movements, and in different sizes and materials